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When is heavy fabric the right choice?
No. Heavy fabric sits in a higher mass band for its use. Higher GSM usually means more mass per square metre. Read the published mass with the end use. Heavy shirting is still lighter than coating.
Can you skip sampling heavy fabric?
Sew a sample seam. Check bulk, needle marks, and drape.
What should stay on the brief besides the keyword heavy fabric?
Published mass, construction, end use, and seam plan. Calling any dark cloth heavy without a mass number.