The three basic woven structures
Plain weave crosses every thread in turn. It is stable and is the base of poplin, voile, canvas and many linens. Twill steps the crossing to make a diagonal rib; denim, gabardine and many suitings are twills. Satin floats more yarns on the surface, which increases lustre and can reduce opacity.
Knit structures are not weaves. Jersey, rib and terry are loops, so stretch and recovery behave differently even when the fibre is the same.
- Plain, twill and satin are the three foundational weaves.
- Knits are a separate construction family.
How to read weave on a product page
FabStitch lists construction as a catalog field when it is known. Use that field with GSM and composition. A 180 gsm plain-weave cotton and a 180 gsm twill cotton will not cut or hang the same.
If construction is not stated, do not infer it from the fabric name alone unless the name is itself a construction, such as poplin or twill.
- Construction plus weight is more useful than either alone.
- Related fabrics help you compare the same fibre in another weave.
Questions this guide answers
- Is twill always heavier than plain weave?
- No. Weight is a separate measurement. Twill can be light suiting or heavy workwear. Read GSM when it is published.
Continue with the catalog
Compare named fabrics, then send an inquiry with the quantity you need.