Brushed and felted wool makes surface visible
Melton, boiled wool, double-face wool, brushed flannel, mohair, alpaca and Casentino form the tactile center of the season. Their stated weights move from 250–400 gsm flannel through 500–800 gsm melton and 600 gsm or more for Casentino.
Weight alone does not decide the product. Melton is heavily felted and cropped for coats, boiled wool begins as a knit before shrinking, double-face wool supports reversible unlined construction, and flannel brings a raised nap to shirts, trousers or suiting.
- Surface and construction distinguish the wool group.
- Product use ranges from shirting to substantial coating.
Dry hand and pile create a second texture group
Cotton moleskin, peach-skin and suede-effect wovens create dry or brushed surfaces without turning real leather or suede into fabric products. Moleskin is the most specific: a dense sueded cotton twill at 280–360 gsm, documented for workwear trousers and jackets.
Corduroy and velvet add pile. Fine-wale corduroy supports shirts and trousers, jumbo cord moves toward outerwear, and silk-viscose velvet brings fluid lustre to occasionwear and interiors. Crushed and panné velvet remain separate because their directional surfaces are visually distinct.
- Real suede and leather are excluded from the fabric catalog.
- Fine and jumbo cord answer different weights and applications.
Classics are enlarged, disrupted or backed
Herringbone, Donegal, tartan, check, gabardine, covert, jacquard and damask remain recognizable, but the reference points to larger repeats, brighter neps, oversized scale, off-register colour and partially rendered motifs.
Technical membrane backing brings gabardine and covert into city outerwear. This is a useful example of the season's larger idea: a classic construction can absorb technical performance without losing its material identity.
- Tartan and check remain separate canonical products.
- Jacquard and damask are not collapsed into one generic pattern.
Technical outerwear and denim provide structure
The technical group includes recycled nylon ripstop, 2L, 2.5L and 3L membrane laminates, wool-technical hybrids, down-alternative fill and recycled polyester wadding. The catalog preserves layer and denier information where the source states it, without inventing waterproof ratings.
Denim spans lightweight 8–11 oz, premium 12–14 oz, recycled-cotton, laser- and ozone-finished, hemp-cotton and selvedge rigid directions. These are separate sourcing concepts, not duplicate names for one blue twill.
- Membrane layer counts remain explicit.
- Six denim concepts preserve weight, fibre and finishing distinctions.
Questions this guide answers
- Is every AW 27/28 fabric heavy?
- No. The season includes very heavy coatings, but also structured classics, denim and technical layers whose weight and purpose vary by product.
Continue with the catalog
Compare named fabrics, then send an inquiry with the quantity you need.